There are some song lyrics which have rested heavily on my mind
over these last few weeks as I’ve travelled through the Balkans. In his 1993
song, “Cold War” Les Holroyd of
Barclay
James Harvest issued a plaintive cry, “Nothing’s going to change”. The song
was written and released for his cousin in Yugoslavia as it fragmented into
violent ethno-religious wars. Marshall Tito had many faults - he was no liberal humanitarian, but he had
managed to keep a lid on the underlying tensions which had repeatedly ripped
through the Balkan states since at least the time of the Ottoman Empire’s
incursion in the 14
th Century. Following his death in 1980s and the
fall of communism across the continent a decade later, the old rivalries and
hatreds boiled up. Travelling through these lands of staggering beauty and
shocking savagery, the words “nothing’s going to change” wailed like a lament
in my mind.
The beautiful old city of Mostar, was once the place where
Serbs, Croats and Bozniaks mixed the most. They went to school together, and
married each other in surprising numbers. With effectively two wars ripping
through the city in the 90s, it was first encircled, and then divided. As an
ancient city, snuggling on the banks of the Neretva – where rocky bluffs
facilitated the construction of the iconic Ottoman bridge – it is ringed by
hills. These sweeping landscapes are beautiful, and where mine-clearance has
been completed, provided us with some stunning hillwalks. “
They echo the songs of the
Partisans” – Holroyd sang. And the hills of Bosnia – Herzegovina saw Partisan
action in WWII. Croatia was an Axis power, but the Serbs were Allied. WWII
ended for most of Europe in 1945, but the collapse of the Third Reich didn’t
bring peace here; the Partisans and Chetnicks then turned their fire on one
another – Tito’s communists, finally gaining power. The things these hills have
witnessed…
There is vegetable seller in Mostar with haunted eyes. He
says to my friend, “I have seen things no man should see.” In the second round
of fighting in Mostar the front line ran through the city – and is still
visible in shattered buildings, bullet holes and mortar impacts that rained
down from the hills, still evident a quarter of a century after the Dayton
Accords silenced the guns – and postponed the next round of bloodshedding. Our
guide, an Englishman who has lived here for a decade tells us that London
recovered quickly after the Blitz because rapidly rising population created
huge demand for land, and housing. But here in Bosnia and Herzegovina, the
population is dropping. The highest unemployment rates anywhere in the European
continent ensure that a steady exodus continues every year. It means the
skyline is still haunted by unused buildings. I tried to imagine growing up
thinking that bullet-ridden buildings are normal. They are not.
The train to Sarajevo rolls through the most amazing
scenery; rivers, gorges, lakes forests and mountains. The brutal communist-era
stations at either end stand in stark contrast the flowing beauty found between
them. Communist architects (of all types) seemed to love huge statements in concrete
– and to prefer function over form. Clearly beauty was seen as an unnecessary
decadence. In Tito’s day trains left for all over Yugoslavia, but current
attempts to revive some of the connections falter at the boundaries of
bureaucracy and mistrust. The vast stations sit empty for much of the day –
miles of trackbed rusts silently all over the former Yugoslavia.
In Sarajevo; Mosques, Orthodox Churches, Synagogues and
Catholic Churches rub shoulders in the old city – the capital of Bosnia. The
city looks like an archaeological dig turned on its side. The Ottoman city is
old, the Hapsburg city is next to it and vast – the communist architecture next
– followed by the mixed variety typical of free markets after that. The place
where Gavrilo Princip fired the shot that launched WWI is in the centre of the
town, as are constant reminders of the awful siege that the city endured in the
mid-1990s.
In 1984 Torvill and Dean had stunned the world with their
ice dance routine. The first ‘communist’ Winter Olympics, had been a triumph.
The ice arena in the city-centre is now a gig venue (Sting was there last
month), but the ski-runs and toboggan tracks are up on the hills which overlook
this ancient place. Easily accessible hills, overlooking the city make the
perfect set-up for Olympians, and military commanders who wish to pound
populations into submission
Bosnia and Herzegovina is divided into two parts. The
Bosnia-Herzegovina federation and Republika Srpska. Crossing from Bosnia to RS
has no international boundary and no passport control – it is all ruled from
Sarajevo. Yet it the “Welcome to Republika Srpska” sign is in English, Russian,
and several other languages – but not in Croatian/Bosnian. This is chilling
because it was here that Karadzic and Mladic pursued the worst of the so-called
‘ethic cleansing.’ We saw a village where a mosque was left, but surrounded by
smashed and overgrown houses surrounding it. What horrors happened here?
Driving across
Republika
Srpska we paused at the genocide memorial at Srebrenica. Here, thousands of
Bosnian Muslims were slaughtered by the Bosnian Serb Army, which the
international tribunal at The Hague called the worst genocide in Europe since
WWII. The Srebrenica UN 'safe enclave' proved to be nothing of the sort, the
women and children were abused and transported, the men executed - while the
international community did too-little too-late. The sight of elderly women
still there mourning the loss of sons, brothers and husbands was a stark reminder
that this was so recent an atrocity. I am used to reading of these things in
history books, where ancient facts are appropriately recorded. But here, the
sorrow is as palpable as the evil present. I saw a dew covered spider's web
hanging from a tree there, trapping insects in the cloudy morning breeze. It
struck me as a poignant image of sorrow hanging in the air, catching memories.
Travelling across the Balkans is to visit countless
memorials and museums remembering violence, horror and depravity; cycles of
hate and retribution stretching back centuries. 8,372 is an enormous number,
but each individual life lost matters greatly, and no amount of 'whataboutery'
can reduce the truth of that - or should reduce the life sentences of those
(wretchedly few) who were convicted of war crimes.
As a Christian, standing quietly paying my respects in this
Islamic cemetery I felt physically sick at the thought that the perpetrators of
these crimes claimed loyalty to the Serbian Orthodox Church. Utter disgust.
Followers of Jesus must 'love their enemies' and 'bless those who persecute
them' - according to Jesus. It is a stark reminder that
"christianity" without Jesus can become monstrous. “I'm baptised in
your prejudice, I'm confirmed with your hate, I'm ordained into violence” John
Lees raged in his lyrics. "Jesus Wept".
Simply as a human, I could not comprehend the stories.
"we grew up with them, we went to school with them, we traded with them,
and played football with them - and then they rose up and slaughtered us".
I read stories like this, across the Balkans from all sides of the wars of the
1990s. How can this be? How can you murder half your own school football team?
The depths of the wickedness of humanity is greater than I had faced since I
stood in Berlin's Jewish Holocaust Memorial. Lord have mercy.
I will never forget Srebrenica.
The River Drina is a stunning water-course, one of the great
rivers of South Eastern Europe. Its huge catchment area funnels masses of water
down towards the Adriatic through a vast, spectacular gorge. It’s not as well-known
as some rivers – but it should be. Here, today Serbia borders Bosnia. Over
countless centuries it has also been the boundary between Catholicism and
Orthodox – and between Christendom and Islamic power. It is said that it is foolish
to live on a geographical fault-line, and what is usually meant by that comes
from the world of physical Geography. It is probably more true in the world of
political geography – for this fault line has seen many tremors and crises.
In Visigrad, a town famous for its beautiful and ancient
bridge – the 1990s seem like very recent history indeed. Our communist-era
hotel was stark in its’ aesthetic-free functionality – and was full of tobacco
smoke, old men and suspicious looks. Old enmities die hard, but so do old
friendships and Croatia is full of German number-plated cars, but in Serb
areas, Russian cars were everywhere. Ivo Andric’s Nobel-winning “The Bridge on
the Drina” is set here – and one can only think it is a mercy that he died
before seeing the bridge become a slaughterhouse for Bozniaks in the early
1990s. It’s said the river ran red, and the hydro-electric power station got
clogged with bodies at the height of the carnage. Yet, in a juxtaposition
perhaps indicative of the contradictions in the human condition, we had a
charming meal out – at scandalously cheap prices, from smiling friendly staff,
joyful to teach us some of their language – while we passively smoked a
thousand cigarettes.
Our first attempt to make it into Montenegro was unsuccessful.
The mountain road that Google maps insisted was the correct route got
increasingly precarious. As it narrowed and contorted, the surface fractured
and our progress slowed to such a rate that we gave up and hammered our way
South on better roads within BiH. When we finally found a remote border
crossing post, the guard looked at us incredulously and said, “
You want Montenegro?!” Indeed we did –
and after stamping our passports on the wrong page, he let us through; far more
quickly we noted than the huge shiny Russian number-plated Range Rover before
us. Tiny Montenegro we soon discovered was much more wealthy and touristy than
Republika Srpska, its beautiful Adriatic
coastal towns having stunning old cities and garish resorts at every turn. The
mountainous interior is very sparsely populated, the rocky ground is hard to
farm, and the gradients severe. It is a stunningly beautiful country too. At
the apartment the landlord welcomed us with plum
Rakija and we soon discovered that we spoke a language in common…..
football. Walking is a delight in Montenegro too, because while it was firmly
allied to Serbia throughout the wars of the 1990s, there was very little
fighting there, and so almost no risk of mines. The Adriatic in these parts is
teeming with fish, and the seafood restaurants are wonderful. Even in the
harbours, we watched small children and old grandpa’s pulling good fish from
the water simply by lowering a single baited line off the side.
Our Balkan odyssey came to end with a long drive through
Croatia, tracing its’ stunning coastline past Cavtat, Dubrovnik, Split and to
our final destination in Zadar. Tito, of course, had been a Croatian – and it
was interesting to speak to two older ladies who recalled him with a fondness
that bordered on idolatry. His propaganda department had not wasted their
efforts on these two, when they were girls. While acknowledging that he’d
murdered many opponents, especially in the 1940s, they had both been to his
grave to pay their respects to the man and his ‘golden era’ of their childhood.
“I thought the world would end when he died” I was told. Titograd has long been
renamed Visigrad, but the man lingers on as a living myth.
As I lookback on our Balkan exploration, so many images
jostle for my attention. The bomb damage in Mostar, the old bridge there too.
The stunning mountains. The Bridge on the Drina. Sarajevo City and the Olympic
Park. The mountains of Monetenegro. Sunset over the Adriatic. The little church
we went to in Mostar where our friend from Burnley led the singing in Croatian.
Srebrenica. And in the background, Les Holroyd’s voice lamenting, “Nothing’s Going to Change, Nothing’s Going
to Change”. But is he right? Optimists point out that Croatia is booming in
the EU, and is a stable, wealthy tourist destination. Montenegro appears to be
heading that way too. Serbia’s desire to enter the EU would further promote
integration. Bosnia Herzegovina has enjoyed the peaceful stalemate for a
quarter of a century. Pessimists want to assert that conflict in the Balkans is
never extinct, only ever dormant and that the historical tensions will
inevitably boil over into violence again one day.
There is a prayer on a plaque in Srebrenica that says, “May
Srebrenica happen to no one else, ever anywhere.” If the optimists are right, then these
lessons will be grasped. But if the pessimists are, then “Nothing’s going to change”.
Another John Lees lyric sums it up, “Please lay down your pistols and
your rifles…… God alone knows how we will survive”.