There are some Munros worth climbing more than once; and these two are definitely in that category. The first time I walked up this fine pair of peaks, was before I began this blog; and my records were kept in a notebook. There are several things I can remember distinctly though, the first is the extremely early summer start, missing my turning up onto the ridge, and clambering through undergrowth, before experiencing an inversion on the summit, and having a lovely sleep up there too; before the clouds lifted and the sun blazed on the hills above, and Rannoch Moor below.
Looking down on Loch Treig (SMcL)
This time this it was quite different, a winter ascent with company! We began at the walkers car ark, and marched by the light of head-torches along to the dam and the lochside. Aware that I had missed a turn last time, we doubled checked with our GPS (which hadn't been invented then!), and found the correct track up to the sheepfold on the Lag Odhar ridge. The first obstacle of note is Meall Cian Dearg which looms ominously over the track below, looking high and impenetrable. As is so often the case, these impossible-looking hills are steep, but don't present any technical challenges; as a path weaves its way in and our of the rocky outcrops.
It's been a while since I have done a walk of this seriousness, and my lack of fitness took its toll on this long steep climb.The last section looked as if it would have been awful in the wet; but yesterday the peat was frozen solid to the hill, and provided some good traction. As we made the top of the Meall Cian Dearg (which is really just a steep end of the ridge), the morning sleeper train from London rumbled its way Northwards alongside Loch Treig below. The guidebook says that Rudolph Hess was kept in house arrest in this glen at the end of the war; that strange character, sitting in a lonely cottage under house-arrest, awaiting his fate, listening to trains rumbling over the moor.... a very odd thought indeed.
Once on the main ridge, the path comes and goes, and some thought is required to keep on track; as in the cloud the ridge is broad, featureless and remarkably long. When finally it narrows and the ascent to Stob a'Choire Mheadhoin begins, the finest section of the walk begins. From here, over the two peaks is a very fine ridge walk; with enough to keep the walker entertained even in the thick fog which wrapped itself around us constantly. We walked much of the way with a couple from a couple of miles up the road from us in Scone, who we fell into conversation with on the way, which was pleasant too.
Unlike my last trip, which involved a long dreamy sleep on the summit, followed by watching the sun-shimmering over Rannoch Moor; yesterday was just too cold to stop for long. For the first week in January conditions were good, there was no snow at all, even at altitude. In fact the Ptarmigan in their pure white camouflage stood out like a sore thumb, with no snow to merge into. In fact, we were so cold that we route-marched it back to the car. SMcL needed to collect some things in Aviemore, which meant a longer drive home; but having done the walk in good time, we were back for 7-ish.
Spot the ptarmigan (SMcL)
Last Sunday I was interviewed in church (Nethybridge CofS, if you're interested), and they asked me what my New Year's resolutions were. I replied, "to get to the hills more". In that regard, 2019 has got off to a flying start.
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