Extolling the wonders of beer invokes two stereotypes. The first is of those whose love of the substance is primarily related to quantity, their drink is lager and their behaviour loutish. The other end of the spectrum are those for whom beer appreciation is a matter of quality. Their drink is real ale and their behaviour is appropriate for the arran-jumper wearing, railway preservation societies and Yetties gigs at which you find them. They might be the objects of derision, but they know their fuggles from their goldings.
It will come as no surprise to readers of this blog that your author has no tendencies towards the first stereotype and worrying tendencies towards the latter. I will admit to visiting a steam railway or two in my time, but would like to robustly deny all rumours of Yetties gigs, Morris-dancing, and the like.
Nevertheless, on a cold winter's evening, when rain lashes the outside of the house and the fire is crackling in the grate and the adjacent seat is primed ready with a good book; the scene of happy contentment is completed with a foaming pint of good English Ale. I say English, quite deliberately, because despite having lived in Scotland for almost all my adult life, I still dislike Scottish ales. This isn't a prejudice against my adopted homeland, they just don't taste quite right, and it doesn't sound right either. In my defence to my Scots friends I would have to add that I wouldn't especially like the thought of an 'English Malt whisky' such as "Glen Milton Keynes" either - so let's appreciate what we are both best at!
Here then are my bottled beer awards. None of these are rare or obscure brews, and I am no expert on the production, breweries or ingredients of these ales, these are simply my subjective appreciations.
In first place is Shepherd Neame's 1698, bottle-conditioned strong ale. Bottle-conditioning means that a little yeast is added to the bottle so a fuller, final fermentation takes place in the bottle. This gives the ale a wonderful smoothness, almost as if it was from the cask. It also makes it fiendishly strong, and responsible drinking of this remarkable ale involves food and a long-slow appreciation of its rich tones. Pleasantly bitter, complex, malty and presented with a thick rich head, 1698 has a pleasant sweetness underlying the hoppy bitterness. All these elements are found in such a delightful balance that the overwhelming taste is almost buttery, with more than a hint of banana loaf! Only locally available in ASDA, 1698 is my undisputed champion bottled ale.
Second place has been awarded to Fuller's London Pride, the ongoing proof that something good can come from Chiswick! London Pride is absolutely top-notch on draught, and the bottled version manages a worthy impression of that great drink. Pleasantly bitter, mellow, drinkable, and not as strong as 1698; London Pride is a consistently first-class ale. Because London Pride is not an extreme ale (by which I mean it isn't hugely bitter, or massively hoppy, or excessively laden with fruity-notes, but has its elements) it is eminently quaffable, and it takes discipline to make sure that it is not rushed, because its beautiful balance should not be mistaken for lack of complexity.
In third-place comes my long-time favourite, Shepheard Neame's Bishop's finger, which comes like their 1698 from their Faversham Brewery in Kent. The unusual name for this ale (according to the blurb on the label) refers to the signposts (shaped like a hand with pointing finger) which once guided pilgrims through Kent's hop-fields on their way to Thomas a Becket's shrine at Canterbury. As "Kentish" strong ale Shepherd Neame have gained a European Protected Geographical Indicator for Bishop's Finger, in its combination of Kentish Hops, Barley and spring water. Bishops Finger is the Lagavulin of the beer world. Full, strong, hoppy, bitter and dark brown-reddish in colour, it has an unmistakable flavour and finish. While it is a great accompaniment to strong flavoured foods, and would be great with a hearty beef casserole or could even give a good curry a run for its money, it would clash with lighter delicate dishes. Finger, has for all its bitter-strength, an interesting flowery, perfumey aftertaste which is a fascinating and lovely sub-text to the main hoppy sensation. If drunk very slightly chilled though, Bishop's Finger is really refreshing as this brings to the fore the ale's other major flavour, the cystal-clear, spring water which Shepherd Neame extract from their artesian well.
Adnams brewery in Suffolk produce a variety of good beers, of which their "Adnams Bitter" is lovely on draught. In bottles, Broadside is a good bet. Very dark, robust, strong and enjoyably bitter, it has something almost European about it, reminding me of some of the dark-beers found in France, for example. Because of its fascinating complexity and lovely taste, it wins a fourth-place honour here. It is a beer I drink less often because it is one that is nice to have for a change, but is (for me anyway) too far to one end of the taste spectrum to make a regular beer. Nevertheless a fine pint in its own right.
In fifth place comes Old Speckled Hen, Morland Brewery's standard bottled Ale. It is light, mellow, malty, pleasant and very easy to drink. Being neither as strong as 1698, I don't have to be so cautious with it, and it blends nicely with a wider range of foods than something Bishop's Finger does. Always good, consistent, a good all-round ale that appeals to a wide range of drinkers.
My final award goes to the odiously titled "Tangle Foot". This is another beer which is nice to have sometimes for a change. Tangle foot is unusually bubbly for an ale, and is loaded with blossomy perfume, and an almost unique citrus-lemon flavour that bursts out underneath the bitter initial flavour. In comparison with the majestic flavours of Bishop's Finger, or the wonderful balanced complexity of London Pride, Tangle Foot is out of its depth. Nevertheless as a really unusual ale, zesty, spicy and nutty, Tangle Foot is worthy of a mention.
There are no doubt many other ales as good as these, and no doubt many rarer and more expensive ones than these too. However, in terms of regular supermarket shopping these are my beer awards.
